Beautiful Mexicans - last post from 2017 and first of 2018

This is from the end of my 2017 Mexican Adventure.  I had drafted this post, but didn't complete it.  It seems like a fitting place to start my 2018 Adventure....

Sometimes, I ride my bike just for the pleasure of moving and feeling the air around me.  Sometimes, I ride just to see what I can see.   These are some of the things I've seen that I want to remember and share.

Juan.  Is an old man who seems to live in a shack.  I stopped to look at the very unusual light post on his property - a dead and hollow palm tree with a "normal" light post light attached to it.  He took the time to tell me about it, and his fruit trees.  Which he seemed very proud of.  He also gave me some of his fruit to taste! (I didn't have my camera with me.  But it was a really nice experience.)

School kids.  Of course there are schools here!  Why is that so interesting to me?  Because they are so much like our own in some ways.  And so different.  The buildings are so indoor/outdoor and most kids wear school uniforms. There is even a trade school on the island for kids with learning difficulties.  I don't know how good it is.  But it seems very warm and friendly.  That's a good thing.

Pictures
1) Young kids playing with the pidgeons in the plaza. So happy!
2) Mary. She was a student in my 2016  English class.  She was such a lovely person! I visited her at the humane society where she worked. She was happy and sad in the picture.  She loved that cat.  But he had just been adopted.  She was saying goodbye to him. Since I don't have a picture of Juan, I put this picture in, since getting to know Mary was also very special for me.
2) School kids in photo class? They were so enthusiastic!
3) The wall outside the school for kids with special needs.

Kaokao to the rescue!

I bought some chocolate the other day.  Then, I had to buy some again...

Kaokao is a little company on the island that makes and sells chocolate. They also offer a really cool tour/chocolate making experience.   I like to support them.  So when I saw their chocolate on sale in a store, I bought a whole bunch!

It's pretty expensive chocolate. So it seemed like a great deal! It wasn't...

It was way passed it's due date.  Dry and white.  Very disappointing. Especially, since I'd asked the sales lady why the chocolate was on sale.  She said the company was gonna change it's packaging....uhnhun.....

I went back to the store to get my money back. Unhunh....The sales lady gave me a BS story about having to talk to the bank, please come back in 3 hours.  Whatever.....

So off I went to the Kaokao company itself.  With my best Spanish, I explained my problem.  First to a very nice employee.  Then to the owner.  He was super nice!  He exchanged all the old chocolate for new.  For a small fee. Which was fair.  Interestingly, he seemed more concerned that I'd think all businesses people in Mexico were unkind.  There are some jerks for sure, but very many kind people too!

Pictures
1) The Kaokao logo on the sign outside the store/factory
2) The Kaokao entrance has a nice mural
3) The "lobby" of the Kaokao store/factory
4) A funky mural near the KaoKao store

What happens at San Martin Beach....

Everyone who comes to Cozumel has to visit the wild side of the island, at least once.  So today, we took my sister, Lorraine, for her first visit. 

We started our afternoon at the Rasta Bar.  Which features Bob Marley and reggae imagery and music.  A very nice chill atmosphere. There, we had nachos, fajitas, lemonade, and margaritas.  All was normal....

Then, we went for a swim at San Martin beach.  It's beautiful there!  There are no restaurants, no bathrooms, nothing.  Just water, sand, and a lifeguard station.  Because today was Sunday, there were also many Mexican families enjoying their beautiful beach.  That's awesome! But Barbara, Lorraine, and I chose a little part of the beach with no one on it, for our swim. Good thing! 

Because Lorraine forgot her bathing suit.  So she chose to swim in her underwear.  That was OK.  Until her bottom became bare.... 

The ocean was rough.  As she tumbled in the waves, her underwear slipped down.  Not wanting to lose them, she took them off, and tossed them up onto the beach.  Ooops!  After the next big wave, they were gone..... 


Another notable moment happened when Barbara lost her balance in the waves.  We were standing fairly close to each other, face to face.  What did her hands land on, when she reached out for help?  Yep!  A good thing my top was well tied on!

 Pictures
1) Barbara, Lorraine, and Tom at San Martin Beach
2) Lorraine and me at Rastas
3) The path to San Martin.  Beautiful!!!!
4 and 5) Some of the atmosphere at Rasta's.  Fun!

Dona Lety, again

Yesterday I got my hair cut.  I love to do that here!

The first time I got my hair cut in Cozumel, it was a real adventure.  I got a reference for a hairdresser from a friend, found the place, asked for a trim in my best Spanish, and lost over 4 inches of length to my hair....luckily, I actually liked the result.  And it grows back....

This year, it was still a bit of an adventure.  Which is fun. But I felt pretty sure the results were what I wanted.  Because my Spanish is better.  And I went back to Dona Lety who cut my hair last year and is a lovely lady.

Last year, she and I chatted, each using our best language skills, while she slowly worked on me.  This year, it was fun to listen to her and another customer chat away, at almost lighting speed. I caught about 30-40% of what they were saying.  Including a very silly story about how someone's dog who has the same name as the customer, and the customer was all confused about who was calling him.  I think a parrot was involved too.  But I'm not so sure about that part.  No matter. They laughed.  I laughed even harder.  It was just so fun to be part of that little scene.

Pictures
1) Dona Lety and her customer Bruno.  Both are very nice people!
2) The view from Dona Lety's hairdressing chair
3)  Norm from Ennis Montana.  He and his girlfriend Terri were a lot of fun.  Norm doesn't like having his picture taken.  But he agreed to model his cool shirt for me!
4 and 5) The view from my chair in the evening at Hotel Cozumel.  I was a guest there thanks to Norm, Terri, and Scott.

I knit a shawl!

I just finished my first "real" knitting project.  A shawl!

Yes, I've been knitting in Mexico!  I've knit at the beach, in the main plaza, at the coffee shop, in bed, on my balcony, with my feet in the pool, in the "dog" park, and on rocks by the ocean.

Why?   For many reasons....Because.... my friend Barbara lost a favourite sweater last year, when we were together in San Miguel de Allende.....I'm not skilled enough yet as a knitter to make a sweater.....  I saw a pretty and simple pattern for a shawl and thought it could kinda replace Barbara's sweater....I like to keep busy and knitting is very portable.....my very special grandma taught me when I was about 4 years old....and I restarted last year when the museum asked me to volunteer to help yarnbomb the light house at the science and tech museum.  (They just installed the yarn bombing.  For "random acts of kindness week) 

I've really enjoyed making the shawl. Knitting in the main plaza of a tropical tourist destination is a real conversation starter.  Because I was knitting, a lovely tourist named Norma approached and asked if she could buy yarn in Cozumel.  Yep!  Follow-me!  The fabric store just off the plaza has a small assortment.  Norma wanted wool to crochet while on her cruise.  I also met Carol and Lloyd while knitting in the plaza.   Very pleasant folk!  Who might now come back to Cozumel for a month instead of cruising. 

Next project?  A toque.  That should make some interesting conversations!  Most Americans don't know what a toque is....

1) Knitting at Money Bar!
2) The shawl!  on me
3) The shawl on me and my sister Lorraine - she arrived yesterday!
4) The dog walker and an interesting man in the dog /knitting park
5) The view from some rocks that I knit on. 

Island of swallows

I'm very happy to say that I keep learning things about Cozumel.  This time, it's about the island's name, and some of its art.

Most of the streets on the island are paved.  With normal pavement/cement.  But some, in the downtown area, are textured.  I've noticed the design many times, but never really questioned it until this week.

I was walking with a friend, Daniel from Quebec, when we walked past a statue with 3 birds circling around. I'd never really paid much attention to the statue either....

Turns out, the birds in the statue are swallows.  And the designs in the pavement are swallows too.  And the name Cozumel was derived from the Mayan "Cuzamil" or "Ah Cuzamil Peten" in full, which means the island of swallows.  In Spanish: Isla de las Golondrinas.  Who knew????

 Pictures
1) The statue of the swallows at the passenger ferry terminal
2) The cutest tiniest chihuahua tied to the scooter tire while the owner runs errands.  He was in a safe place.  There's a man who watches the scooters  and bicycles for a very small fee.
3) Me and my new friend Dexter.  Who sat on my lap during most of my dinner with Barbara at a restaurant called Kondessa.
4) The swallow pattern in the pavement downtown. 

Evening in the plaza

You know when something plain becomes special?  That's how it was for me at the plaza last night.

The light in the early evening, around sunset, is really nice here. As it is in many places.  The evening air is also very nice.  Just a little cooler than the days, which can be hot. So last night, I went for a bike ride about 1 hour before sunset.

I decided that downtown would be my destination.  To people watch.  It was so lovely!

Initially, I sat by the water just beside the passenger ferry terminal.  I often wondered how 3 companies can run ferries about every hour each, and stay in business.  The number of people coming and going is how!  So many!  Of every kind!

Then, I went to the main plaza.  Which they renovated extensively last year.  They did such a nice job!  They installed water fountains that the kids, and adults, can play in.  A fun colourful "Isla Cozumel" sign that tourists can pose with.  And beautiful lights that shine on the trees and change colours slowly.  Of course,  there are also lots of benches to sit on to rest and people watch.

One of the best things, is that there is a real mix of people.  Some tourists.  But lots of locals, enjoying their world! 

I enjoyed all of that.  But the best part, in many ways, was my chit chat with Brisas.  A really nice Mexican lady who's studying to be an English teacher.  We chatted about all sorts of things, for about an hour.  Including life in Cozumel, her 12 year old daughter Victoria, cochinito pibil, maple syrup, and the aurora borealis (her words and question!). We also laughed really hard when I was looking for the Spanish word for "excited".  The right word is "emocionada".  But I always wanna say "exitado".  Which is a real word.  But for use in the bedroom....

Pictures

1) Kids playing in the fountain.  The little guy on the tricycle just kept going around and around the fountain.  His bike didn't have pedals.  He just pushed with his feet. Adorable!  So were the brother/sister (?) in their underwear!
2) Brisas and her daughter Victoria.  Such nice people!  Victoria was roller blading.  And has a beautiful smile!2) The fun Isla Cozumel sign.  So popular for photos!
3) The beautiful lights on the trees.  It was really hard to choose just one picture...

4) A little girl and her dog
5) The sunset.  Pretty!

Tacos at the fair!

I really like tacos for dinner.  Especially tacos from a taco stand.  Or at the fair!

There are many taco stands in Cozumel.  But mostly, they're in the back streets.  Which I regularly bike through during the day.  But not so much at night. Not because I feel unsafe, but it just feels safer to stay in the more touristy areas at night if I can. 

But Cozumel is getting ready for Carnaval.  So the plaza near my apartment is slowly being transformed into a fair ground.  Complete with a big yummy taco stand!

For about 3 nights in a row, I walked past the taco stand.  Partly to scout it out.  Partly cause it's just fun to walk through the fair ground. Each time, a young man with a menu in hand, has beckoned me to enjoy the tacos.  Each time, I said "another night".

Last night, I finally went!  I had 2 tacos "arabe" (kinda like a beef shawarma), and 3 tacos "pastor" (pork cooked on vertical spit).  I thought I was a pastor fan.  Now, I'm an arabe fan.  Delicious!!!!!

It was nice.  My waiter was the young man with the menus.  He recognized me.  He said you have the "bici" - my little green bicycle :)

Pictures
1) The taco "kitchen".  The spit on the left just got loaded with a billion thin pork chops!
2) My dinner!  The tacos arabe are on the right, the pastor on the left.  That's  jamaica water - made with jamaica flowers.  And two bottles of sauce garlic (disapointing, not like shawarma garlic mayo...) and a spicy/sweet bbq sauce
3) The table with the jamaica water and horchata
4) The menu.  Keep in mind the prices are in pesos. Ten pesos are about 60 cents Canadian at the moment
5) The fair is very much a family thing.  This family is buying pizza

 

Art in Cozumel

There isn't  a really significant "art scene" here in Cozumel.  But there is lots of art, if you look just a little....

There are a couple of artists who live and work here on the island.  That I know about.  One is a fellow name "Galo", who does all kinds of work.  The other is Lucio Frias.  Who's studio (gallery?) is right across my street.  Both these artists have been around for some time, and have art in various shops on the island.  But there isn't really a big art scene here.  Certainly not like Puerto Vallarta where artists, art stores, and art classes abound.  I miss that.

But there is art on the Island.  In the form of murals.  Pretty much everywhere, in every style.  A few are just kinda "expressive" (weird to me).  But most are interesting and nice.  And many promote the conservation of the island's ecology and the reefs around the island.  Wikipedia says that Cozumel's reef system is part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System and is the second largest coral reef system in the world!

I've also finally done some of my own painting these last 2 weeks.  I'm just so busy.....

Pictures
1-4) Some of the murals around town
5) My latest rooster painting.  Thank you Linda for sending me the inspiration pictures!!!!

Cochinita pibil!!!

I'd seen it on menus.  I'd seen it in the grocery store as a pre-made dish.  But I hadn't tried it until yesterday.  So much lost time I have to make up for.....It's delicious!


Cochinita pibil (aka puerco pibil) is a traditional slow roasted pork dish from the Yucatan Peninsula.  Whic includes Cozumel, Cancun, and Playa Del Carmen.  Traditionally, the dish is made by marinating the meat in a strongly acidic citrus juice, seasoning it with annatto seed (aka achiote),  wrapping the meat in banana leaf, and slow roasting it in a pit with fire at the bottom.  

Cochinito means baby pig.  So the traditional dish was made with suckling pig.  But you can use pork shoulder or loin. The traditional citrus juice came from Seville (bitter) oranges.  But you can use sweet oranges with lemons, limes, or vinegar.   



Wikipedia says that the main character, a CIA agent played by Johnny Depp, in the movie "Once Upon a Time in Mexico",  orders this dish every time he enters a Mexican restaurant.  He also tells every person he has lunch with to taste it, and even kills a cook because his puerco pibil is "too good".

The version I ate came from Chedraui, my local grocery store.  I'd been avoiding the dish because it's sold in a self-serve steamer.  It doesn't look great.  But holy smokes!  I like it!  I do wonder how much the version I bought resembles the real traditional dish tho....


 Pictures:
1) Cochinito pibil is traditionally served with red pickled onions
2) You can buy banana leaves at the mercado to make cochinito pibil
3) You can buy cochinito pibil and roast pork at the grocery store.  It's serve yourself.  Just there.  In the open.  Which is partly why is took me this long to try it
4) Horchata is a popular drink in Mexico.  It's rice based, and served with cinnamon.  It kinda tastes like vanilla ice cream
5) There are many many ways to buy hot peppers in the grocery stores !

Loki and other dog stuff

Dogs are everywhere in Cozumel!  They are, in so many ways, a regular source of amusement!

There aren't many real street dogs here. As in dogs that don't belong to anyone and are neglected.  Though, there are a few dogs that roam the plaza or streets.  Generally, they're in nice condition.  Sometimes they wear sweaters, because it is winter after all (really???). And they often behave like they are the king of that space.  Very cute!

My neighbour, across the street and two houses over, apparently has about ten dogs.  They sometimes bark, all at the same time.  It can be noisy.  But I've never seen them.  The house has a very tall wall all around it.  Rumour has it they (used to) fling the dog poop over their wall into the street.  My friend called the street "excremento way".  I haven't seen any significant poop this year.

A lot of the expats (Canadians and Americans) who live here have dogs.  You can see them walking their them, mostly in the morning. 


But one of the cutest dogs on the island is Loki!  Barbara's dog.  A rescue.  He was found near Cancun, in the jungle.  Almost dead.  Virtually unrecognizable as a dog.  Some folks there raised $1500 so a vet could treat him.  When Barbara saw an internet posting that he needed a home, she drove to Cancun to get him! 

Pictures;
1) Loki ignoring the camera (a usual thing) and his new Lamb Chop stuffy.  Lamb Chop seems so sad (to not be chewed up?)
2) Loki giving Lamb Chop some love.  But still ignoring the camera...
3) A sign in the park where lots of people walk their dogs.  Toooo funny!
4) A dog in my hood that likes to give me grief
5) A "mayan" dog on the beach in Tulum. Cute.  And kinda not.