Super Cool Bats!

I had a very nice day at Playa Azul today and my first real swim since I started the lung infection.  Which was great!  But even more awesome were the bats I saw flying this evening!!

Sunday is a good day to go for a big bike ride because there are no cruise ships in town and way less traffic.  So I went to a beach on the North end of the island called Playa Azul.  It's about 20 minutes away, on my little bike, along the waterfront.  Very nice and long enough in the afternoon heat.

My lungs are almost back to normal!  So I was able to go for a big-ish swim for the first time in over a week.  Initially, the swim was awesome!  The sun was out and the bottom of the ocean was beautiful!  I swam along the shore, one way then back.  Between two landmarks. When I got to my first landmark, south of my start point, I turned back, towards my second landmark.  But when I got to my second landmark, just north of my start point, I was in trouble.  The current was so strong, I couldn't advance. Yikes!  I swam towards shore. All dead coral and scratchy.  But I got out ok, walked back to where the current was less strong, and managed to swim back to my start point.  The lesson?  If I'm swimming super fast, it's not my heroic strength.  There's a strong current.  Dum dum....

The highlight of my day happened on my way home from dinner.  I went to the Blue Angel, a super pretty restaurant on the waterfront, with Susan, Chris, and their friend Vera.  For Vera's last night in Cozumel.  Chris and I chose to walk home.  On a dark-ish side street, we saw bats!  A whole bunch of them!  Swooping in and out of a tree that was very close to a street light.  The bats were hunting!  They sometimes flew right over our heads.  Not a sound!  I had never experienced that before.  Chris and I agreed we'll have to go back another night to see if they're there again!

 Photos:
#1 - the entrance to Playa Azul with my bicycle locked to a palm tree
#2 - some kids playing on the beach with my swim safety stuff in the foreground - a floatation device/visibility marker and a whistle
#3 - Chris enjoying the view

Manatees at Chankanaab

I was a full on tourist today!  I went to Chankanaab Park.  And did the "Swim with Manatees" thing.  Very super cool!

If you're like me, then your first thought might be, those kinds of things are cruel to the animals. Who knows, there might be some truth to that thought.  But I don't think so. 

The reason I think it's Ok to have swam with the manatees, is that they are actually reproducing in the space they live in.  Generally speaking, animals don't breed if they feel stressed or unhappy.  Then there the fact (I hope it's true) that one of the manatees I hung out with was a rescue.  He got stuck in a small area of water, ate all the food there was, then started to munch on plastic bags.  He was going to die.  So the government allowed the organization to rescue him, do endoscopic surgery to remove the plastic bags from his gut, and feed him papaya.  Which apparently has healing properties.  I hope that this information was not a bold faced lie.  I should read about it.  Wikipedia knows everything.....

So the event went like this.  I'm the only tourist in the pen.  With five manatees, four trainers, and one photographer.  What a treat!  Once in the water, Jesse, my guide, let me feed the manatees lettuce, kiss them, hug them, "dance" with them, and then swim around with them!  The four trainers were there to make sure I wasn't totally overwhelmed by the five manatees at once.  I had two at the most with me at any time, usually just one.  The trainers fed the others to distract me.

I learned this. Manatees are mammals.  Endangered.  They have no teeth, but tough gums.  The have a belly button.  Their nipples are under their flippers.  You can see the boys' genitalia.  It's about where you'd expect it to be.  They see in colour.  But close their eyes when on the water's surface to protect them from the sun.  Their nostrils close when in the water.  They move slowly and grow moss on their backs.  They have nails on their fins, just like elephants have on their feet.  They're in the same family. They're endangered.  Mostly because of pollution and boat propellers. 

The photographer took 160 pictures of me.  I can only show you the one they printed because I took a picture of it.  The rest are on a CD and I don't have a CD reader with me.....


Photos:
#1 - me smiling like crazy with my friend, the manatee!
#2- a worker pushing many coolers of fish for the "swim with the dolphins" events
#2 - a crocodile.  he blinked.  I know he was alive
#4 - the tequila tour set up.  very cheery!

A Trip to the Human Society and Dinner at La Choza

It was cool out yesterday.  So I decided it was a good day to go exploring on my bicycle.  I like to have a destination, so I chose the Humane Society as my potential goal, if I found it.

Last year, I went to the Humane Society with Chris and Susan.  So I had an idea about where it is.  But I was up for kinda getting lost.  And I successfully did that!  I cycled down a dirt road.  Found the "Animal Control" place.  Asked a few folks along the way.  And voila!  I found it!

When we were there last year, we were a bit disappointed in the welcome we received.  We thought we were welcome to go almost any time to play with the cats to socialize them or walk the dogs.  We did walk the dogs.  But we felt more "in the way" than welcome.  Maybe it was mostly a communication issue.

I was optimistic that it would be better this year because one of the students in my English class, Mary, is the manager there.  I figured I could ask for her and see if that helped.  It did.  Mary wasn't there.  Turns out she's pregnant and having difficulties.  I hope she's OK.  She's super nice!

But one of the employees gave me a cat toy, and told me I could hang out as long as I wanted.  It was very enjoyable.  The cats were divided into 3 enclosures: kittens, teenagers, and adults.  One of the adults took me immediately, but was at risk of shredding my clothes with it's claws.  The kittens were fun, but much less butterball than Canadian kittens, so not quite as cute.  But the teenagers were a blast!  They went nuts for the toy!!!

 Photos:
#1 - A teenage cat going nuts for the toy!
#2 - the adult cat who loved me and was shredding my clothes
#3 - the adult cats went nuts when an iguana skidded across the roof of their enclosure!
#4 - the signage that helped me not be lost

The Gigantic Beef Dude at the Market

On my way home from class this morning, I stopped at the San Francisco market to buy meat and vegetables.  It's not a big market.  But it has lots of interesting little shops and people.

I usually enjoy buying at the market.  I feel like I'm supporting small businesses and individuals.  And usually there's good karma involved in the purchases.  For example, I bought some lion fish filets from a fish vendor 2 days ago.  We chatted while he cleaned the fish.  It was amiable and pleasant.

But today was a whole different experience!  I went to the beef vendor who kindly answered some questions for me a few days ago.  But he was almost out of beef today.  What he had left looked a little doubtful.
So he sent me to another vendor. 

Yikes!  This transaction was so crazy devoid of karma!  I hope my recipe will still turn out well!

This gigantic guy pouring out of his t-shirt stood there scowling. I don't know beef cuts in English, and certainly not in Spanish.  So I just asked about how big 1/2 kg of beef would be.  He picked up a chunk of beef that was just sitting there on the counter. And weighed it.  I had no words.  I pictured him smiling at my attempt at Spanish, and cutting fresh piece from the hanging beef.  Nope.  Just the chunk from the counter.  Scowl.  Scowl.  I bought it as is, and retreated.

Photos:
#1-The beef vendor.  Without my big scowling man.  I didn't dare take his picture!
#2 - a huge fresh fish!
#3 fruits and veggies for sale
#4 - hoolahoops for sale too!

Mad and Kate at Woody's

Yesterday was filled with several nice small things.  But the highlight was definitely my evening at Woody's with Kate. 

I really like the days here.  There are so many things to do. Yesterday was especially nice in that way.  I went for a bike ride towards the south to scout out a potential snorkeling site where I saw two iguanas sunning themselves - always fun!  On my way back, I stopped at a little beach to just stick my feet in the water and enjoy the view.  Then, Chris and I went for a mini swim, my first since I've gotten sick, and her first since her medicine troubles.  I think it made us both feel especially good.


But the evenings have a certain magic feeling.  There's a certain calmness and there are sparkly lights.  I enjoy riding my bike and walking around by myself.  But I was really happy that a woman named Kate chose to share yesterday evening with me.  She's Chris' very good friend, who's visiting Cozumel for just a short time.  She was going to walk downtown yesterday evening.  So I told her about Pako and Woody's, and offered to meet her there after my class.  I was very glad that she did.  The night air was perfect.  Pako was charming, as usual.  And we had a very touching conversation with Nelly, Woody's owner. I had never chatted with her before.  But Kate said hello, and Nelly shared the sad story of her son's recent death.  I'm glad she felt able to share.

Photos:
#1 - well camouflaged iguana's at Paprika beach
#2 The beach beside Tio Jose's
#3 - Pako, Kate, and me
#4 - breakdancers doing there thing at Woody's



 

Cozumel Art

There isn't a significant "art" scene here in Cozumel, especially compared to Puerto Vallarta where there are many art stores/galleries and events.  Until yesterday, I only knew one artist on the island, Galo.  I bought a painting from him two years ago. 

But if you look around, there is still some art.  There are several new murals in town, mostly dedicated to the celebration and conservation of Cozumel's coral reefs.  Which are sadly not nearly as healthy as many years ago.  Hurricanes and human activity have taken their toll. 


Yesterday, I met another artist,  Lucio Frias.  I was walking in my neighbourhood, home from the waterfront.  He was walking his bicycle, with the cutest little black dog in the bicycle's front basket.  He also had 5 wooden frames hanging off of his bicycle handle bars.  Three of them were about 6'x4'.  The other two were about 2'x3'.  The "I can carry that on my bicycle or scooter" attitude of Mexicans amazes me!

Lucio says that he has paintings in several homes, restaurants, and hotels on the island.  I'll have to go check it out! 

Photos:#1 - Yolanda posing with the 1st mural I spotted this year
Photos #2-....all the rest...One of them is a little Georgia Okeefe like i thnik...

Reganing my zen

Being sick is not fun.  It's making it hard to maintain my zen.  But I think I took some positive steps today!


I'm glad I've been blogging.  Of course, it's a really nice way to share my adventure with everyone.  But it's also a way for me to reflect on the best / most interesting parts of each day and to remember them.  I just checked my last few entries.  Yep, each day has had something fun or interesting in it.  I want to remember that!! Because it also feels like I've been sick for a while and not fully able to do everything I want to.  And that sucks!   But I'm hopeful that I'll feel better very soon and I can be my usual self again.

Basically, my lungs feel congested.  I can't breathe deep without coughing, a mostly dry cough.  And I feel tired.  Likely from not breathing well, and worrying about it.

On Saturday, I tried two things to make myself better.  I went to see a "magnetismo" healer because a few. friends here swear by it, and I felt it was worth a try.  If nothing else, it would be an interesting experience.  Unfortunately, I don't think it helped.  After going, I read more about magnetismo. It's not really supported by science. Maybe I needed to believe a little more to make it effective?  On Saturday, I also bought some anti-histamine and an expectorant, thinking I might be having an allergic reaction to mold and I need to cough out the yucky stuff. It's been very humid here lately.  Nope.  They weren't much help either.

So today, I went to the same hospital that so kindly helped us find Christine's medicine on Friday.  After taking my vital signs, listening to my heart and lungs, and examining the colour of the yuck I coughed up, the doctor concluded that it's just a virus.  Not much different from our flu at home.  So he prescribed buckets of fluid, ibuprofin to reduce the brochial irritation, and medicines to help me stop coughing but cough up the yuck.  Isn't that contradictory???  But he said I don't have any bacterial infection in my lungs because I have no fever and very limited good colour yuck.  Yay!

After seeing the doctor and before class, I took another step to find my zen.  I was super tired, but. really just wanted to be near the ocean.  So I packed up my school things, biked to the water front, found a small patch of sand, and slept.  My sand spot was kinda downtown.  Not in an area where people would do that kind of thing.  So it was a little "hippy" of me do to it.  That felt just fine!!

Photos
#1 - a eucalyptus sucker and small container of Vicks Vapour Rub that Elaina, the caretaker at Casa Mandarina gave to me.  So incredibly sweet of her!  The rub is pronounced "va (like vavoom), po (like police) rub (like room with a b at the end instead of the m)  priceless!
#2 - Elaina.  She frequently over estimates my Spanish, but she's very sweet!
#3 my medicines.  it looks worse than it is...
#4 - my nap space today.  perfect!  in such a hippy way!!!

My neighbourhood

I felt tired today.  I think I have a cold.  So mostly I hung out around the house, except for a nice walk to Hotel Cozumel where I napped and stretched.  So this is a good time to tell you a little about my neighbourhood.

I'm staying at a place called Casa Mandarina.  It's owned by a super nice Mexican couple, who happen to be/have been in Paris.  I know this because David, the husband told me while he was here this weekend.  It seems he had business in Mexico and dropped by here for 2 days.  While he was here, he skype introduced us to his wife, Ana Paula who I corresponded with for my reservation here. I don't know what they're doing in Paris.  It felt rude to ask in the short time we chatted.

Casa Mandarina is in the Corpus Cristi neighbourhood, generally a nice place.  I'm about 2 blocks from where I stayed the last 2 years, and 6 blocks from the water front.  Right beside me, is a little complex where 2 Canadian couples are staying at the moment. It's lovely, and I would have stayed there, except they have lots of greenery in their little courtyard which means they have lots of mosquitoes.  And there's no pool, which I do like to have.  And it is very nice to be staying, again, in the same complex as my friends Susan and Chris!  Which might not have been possible there.

Across the street, there's an up/down duplex with a family upstairs.  We've only said hello so far.  But they seem nice.  Next to that is a very large house!  With an American owner who has adopted about 10 dogs and a few cats.  Aww...how caring!  Except the poop on the street is, lets say, plentiful!  Apparently, they sometimes fling it over the wall around the house and onto the street.  I hope it doesn't happen when I walk by! 

You should not live in a Mexican neighbourhood and expect quiet.  Most buildings are made of cement, which lets sound carry very well.  It is very quiet sometimes here.  But, one neighbour has a boom box they like to share sometimes.  The other has an air conditioner in need of a tune up.  And the 10 dogs and uncounted cats sometimes decide to be very vocal in the middle of the night.  It's kindof funny, in a way.  To picture all the dogs barking and excited together!  And to imagine the cats' nocturnal search for "friends".....

Nothing ear plugs can't fix!  And, as David says..."the sounds are free with the rent!"

Photos:
#1-my neighbour's super cute courtyard
#2 the huge fancy yellow house of dogs and cats
#3 maybe the most vocal cat.  he looks like his eyes are crossed.  adorable!!
#4 my street with Casa Mandarina on the right

Kun Che Park!

Pat invited me to tag along with her friends to visit Kun Che Park.  It's brand new, so none of us really knew what to expect.  Turns out, it was a real treat! 

Kun Che park just opened this January, in El Cedral, the first town to be established on Cozumel Island.  Pat noticed it last week when she was in El Cedral.  The park operator invited her to bring friends at a discounted rate, to help promote it. 

Wow!  The park includes a network of paths through the jungle with stops that show various Mayan structures including gardens, huts where they made tortillas and chocolate, an altar (right word?) and sculptures.  Our guide, Pedro, explained things super well at all stops.  At some, there were also women in traditional Mayan dress who explained in Mayan what they were doing. 

After the paths, we entered an arena where actors dressed in Mayan ceremonial costumes played "pelote".  The Mayans played this ball game all year long.  But during the 5 days/year when the "good gods" took a break and the "bag gods" might be tempted to mess with people, the teams played for the honour of being the one(s?) sacrificed to pacify the bad gods.  That means, the winner(s) would die.  The costumes and pre/post game ceremonies were very impressive!

Then there was more!  A buffet lunch with panuchos and salbutes (2 types of tortillas with toppings), cochinita pibil (pig in pibil sauce), pollo en escabeche (a chicken dish) and fruits.  There was also horchata (rice water) and jamaica (hibiscus water), both traditional Mexican beverages. We ate while watching a series of traditional Mexican dances.


I was really lucky because the discounted cost for all of this cost about $22 plus a few well earned tips.  The regular price will be about $110!  

Photos:
#1 - Pedro, our guide, telling us about the little creatures in the jungle who sometimes mess with humans
#2 - The healer blessing us before we went into the jungle, to protect us from the little creatures
#3 and 4 - Pelote ceremonies
#5 - The pibil fruit.  Also known as annatto.  Pibil is a cooking technique that involves wrapping pork (or another meat) in banana leaves, marinating it in sour orange and achiote– a sweet, slightly peppery red sauce made from annatto seed, a plant found in the tropics – and baking it in a hand-dug barbecue pit in the ground for several hours.

A day of contrasts

I've been running around a lot since I've arrived.  Doing lots of wonderful things.  But I guess it caught up to me.  I have a mild lung infection and low energy.  So today, I slowed it way down.  Except for this evening.  A night out with friends!

I don't know how I got the lung infection.  It might be mold because it's been super humid lately.  It might be a thing going around.  Either way, it sucks.  My lungs are kinda congested, I'm coughing, and my energy is low.  Though I think worrying about it, and what I should or shouldn't do about it is likely tiring me as much as the congestion itself.  It's not terrible.  So no one should worry!

So today, I got up late-ish, went out for breakfast with a friend, napped, and stayed home.  Except for tonight.  I had a dinner date with Barbara, from the school, at Woody's, a restaurant in the main plaza, to watch a popular musician, Pako, play.  There is nothing like a night out with friends and a little alcohol to make things all good!

When I arrived at Woody's, I met Pat the super nice Canadian who stores my bicycle when I'm gone.  So I joined her and her friends for a while.  Then Barbara arrived, then Tom her husband, then all the employees from Tom's coffee shop. 

In the end, some folks came, some  folks went, but we had lots of fun!  What a nice way to forget about not feeling so well!

Photos:
#1 - a dog that lives in the main plaza.  No one owns him, but everyone takes care of him.  It was a little windy and cool today, so he's got his warm sweater on!
#2Me and Barbara and Marik (?) from Tom's coffee shop.
#3 It's a little vulgar.  But the sentiment has some merit!
#4 - a vendor in the plaza under a colourful mural

Medical mission and The Pub

Yesterday, a bunch of us were on a mission to find a very specific medicine.  We mostly achieved our goal, and celebrated by having lunch at "The Pub". A super cute place!

My friend Christine has to take several medications daily to manage a pain condition.  Unfortunately, she forgot to bring the full supply of one of them. A potentially really bad situation.  So yesterday morning, we set out to see if we could buy it here in Cozumel. 

There were four of us on the mission, each with a specific role. Christine was there of course, as the patient.  Susan was her very caring and knowledgeable partner.  I was the translator.  Jan, a friend we met last year, drove us so we could move around quickly.  She also knows the Island best, and had a functioning cell phone, with Internet access. 

We tried the Mega grocery store pharmacy 1st.  They cater to ex-pats and cruise ship folks.  They`re big and have lots of stuff.  But no go.  Then, Jan suggested we try the International Hospital.  There, the super nice staff, including a very handsome doctor and head of the hospital, looked up the drug and called several pharmacies on the Island.  The drug exists in Mexico, but not in Cozumel.  Chris used Jan`s cell phone to consult a web site dedicated to her condition and found an alternative drug, The nice doctor concurred that it would work and prescribed it.  Yay! Crisis averted!

After that kinda tense event, we went to a super cute restaurant called The Pub.  It was raining, so we sat on the back porch, facing a beautiful courtyard.  The rain actually added to the event, at least for me.  When it rains, many of the 30 or so turtles who live there come out.  Super fun to see them!

Photos
#1 - The Pub from the street
#2 - they said I could pick up the turtles.  I had to!  I did wash my hands very well after.  And my dress.  One pooped on me....
#3 The mission team
#4 The Pub's beautiful courtyard

A new bottom bracket for my bike!

It turns out that aceitunas are not enough to keep a bicycle healthy.  My bottom bracket needed to be replaced. 

I was reluctant to take my bicycle to the shop to get the bottom bracket fixed.  Mostly, because my bike is old and Czechoslovakian.  I was concerned that they might not have the right tools or parts to fix it, and they might accidentally make things worse.

How silly of me!  This shop is amazing!  They can do anything!  I'll bet they could even make my bicycle fly!

I started the new chapter to this saga with the help of my English class students.  I needed to know the Spanish words for ball bearings - baleros, stuck - atascado, and replace - reemplazar.  I really like asking the students for help with Spanish words.  I hope it shows them that the teachers are human too and there's no shame in asking.

The fellow at the bike shop service counter isn't chatty, or into helping me with my Spanish much.  But he's true to his word.  He said we can fix that in two hours.  I went for a walk.  Came back 2 hours later.  And voila!!  A brand new bottom bracket installed for about $10 Canadian.   I am soooo happy!

Pictures:
#1 - my bicycle shop is always busy
#2 to 4- colourful and happy things I saw while walking around, and waiting for my bicycle